Transtaïga Bicycle Tour

Zaac's 2009 bicycle visit to the Rupert River, far away from human population centers and inaccessible to many Americans. It was one of the most remarkable wild places on the planet. Selected photos of a 5000km bicycle journey over some of the most mysterious and remote roads, including a 666km dead-end, dirt road known as the Trans Taiga Highway. The second known bicycle journey on this road, rode on a vegan diet, most of which had been scavenged.

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I  stop at the only gas station along the James Bay Road where bathroom  graffiti reveals the presumptuous attitudes held by hardened outsiders.  Similarly, industry has presupposed the need for ‘development,’ the mark  of which has already destroyed ecological communities and has furthered  the degradation of native homelands. Ronald Niezen points out that  the generation that emerged after mega-dam implementation “seems to have  lost a close connection with the forest lifestyle and is deeply  affected by the lack of self-esteem and identity that this can bring  about (Niezen, 1998: 91-2).”
Niezen, Ronald Defending the Land: Sovereignty and Forest Life in James Bay Cree Society, MA: Allyn and Bacon. 1998.

I stop at the only gas station along the James Bay Road where bathroom graffiti reveals the presumptuous attitudes held by hardened outsiders. Similarly, industry has presupposed the need for ‘development,’ the mark of which has already destroyed ecological communities and has furthered the degradation of native homelands.
Ronald Niezen points out that the generation that emerged after mega-dam implementation “seems to have lost a close connection with the forest lifestyle and is deeply affected by the lack of self-esteem and identity that this can bring about (Niezen, 1998: 91-2).”

Niezen, Ronald Defending the Land: Sovereignty and Forest Life in James Bay Cree Society, MA: Allyn and Bacon. 1998.

Along my ride I meet someone dedicated to the empowerment of aboriginal  Cree communities and he brings me to a mitogan.  A mitogan is a log  house structure covered with sphagnum moss, overall forming a shelter  beneath a living swamp.  Structures like this are capable of keeping  warm through subarctic winters.

Along my ride I meet someone dedicated to the empowerment of aboriginal Cree communities and he brings me to a mitogan. A mitogan is a log house structure covered with sphagnum moss, overall forming a shelter beneath a living swamp. Structures like this are capable of keeping warm through subarctic winters.

The floor is covered with bouncy and aromatic spruce boughs, which provide wonderful human nesting materials.  Miraculously, no black flies follow me in from outside.

The floor is covered with bouncy and aromatic spruce boughs, which provide wonderful human nesting materials.  Miraculously, no black flies follow me in from outside.

This  river is named after Pontax, one of the traditional Cree fur trappers.   The conservation of the trapper livelihood remains a central concern of  Cree negotiations with outsiders.Accord to Daniel Francis and Toby  Morantz, fur trading has been fair, cooperative, and peaceful since the  seventeenth century (Francis,1983:25,167).
Francis, Daniel; Morantz, Toby Elaine. Partners in Furs: a History of the Fur Trade in Eastern James Bay. McGill-Queen’s University Press, 1983.

This river is named after Pontax, one of the traditional Cree fur trappers. The conservation of the trapper livelihood remains a central concern of Cree negotiations with outsiders.
Accord to Daniel Francis and Toby Morantz, fur trading has been fair, cooperative, and peaceful since the seventeenth century (Francis,1983:25,167).

Francis, Daniel; Morantz, Toby Elaine. Partners in Furs: a History of the Fur Trade in Eastern James Bay. McGill-Queen’s University Press, 1983.

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In putting this sideshow together I must send out many thanks to many people who I will do my best to properly acknowledge. I am especially grateful to those who helped me prepare and made this trip possible such as Aaron at Carrion Cycles who constructed an incredible bicycle frame. I also want to send a big thanks to Nick Jackson who I had the pleasure of riding north with for the first leg of the trip, and who generously provided a ride to Montreal.

The critique and editing advice of Meg Rudne and Jim Hoffecker were also an invaluable contribution to making this particular recollection possible. The web support by an old friend Nick McGlynn was very helpful. I am grateful to Eric and Mike Giannico who painted my bicycle. I also own thanks for the assistance offered by Dave at Raw Indulgence, who gifted me some tasty energy bars for my trip.

Several people who found me shelter along the way were, at times, crucial. I owe a big debt to Sophie Richard-Ferderber & Denyse Richard & Danny Ferderber for their generous assistance and support. I am grateful to Sylvan of Camp Despains and send hope that his project flourishes. Additionally I send thanks to Tourne-Sol, Antoine Desrochers, Julie Sim, Alexis Bertrand & Noah, Lucie & Sam & Irish, Silvio Gallus & Sabrina Morissette, a much appreciated accommodation and friendly debate at Leaf River, Blanch's family, the family at Nouchimi km 286, Marie-Anne Boulanger, Jean-Luc Boily, Alex Robitaille, Stéphanie St-Amant, and Peupleloup. More thanks to other support and arrangements along the way made on my behalf from Jean-Marie Arsenault, Clotilde & Marie-Josée, Téa Troy, the warm reception arranged by Joselyn, and Freddy Jolly.

Additionally I am glad to have met and been acquainted with the wonderful projects of Lucy Golden & Jamie Burris & Luke Golden who provided a ride from New Hampshire to the Connecticut Mycological Foray.

Finally a big thanks to many others from whom I retain memories but not names.

I appreciate all of your assistance!

Photos by Zaac C. All rights reserved.